Salt

What is it about surfing that causes it to become almost an obsession for some people? Is it the thrill of the act itself, or are there deeper implications? Does it become a sort of therapy or coping mechanism against the sensory assault of modern life? How has it changed lives for better or worse? For those not involved surfing can seem like just a sport, but I think it is much more than merely an activity to pass time. The salt gets in your blood and it stays there. It makes you bitter and miserable when you’ve been dry for too long, but it’s all forgotten when you return. It makes you aware that you’re still breathing. The world is still turning. As long as there’s a sun to warm the wind and oceans for it to cross there will always be waves. There will always be that connection. No matter how bad things seem, we can always go back to the salt.